Add beer recipe. This is homebrew after all.

Signed-off-by: Adam Vandenberg <flangy@gmail.com>

Library/Contributions/examples/brew-beer.rb

@@ -0,0 +1,179 @@
+HOMEBREW_BEER = <<-EOS
+Recipe stolen from: http://allrecipes.com/howto/beer-brewing-for-beginners/
+
+**The Key Ingredients**
+Before beginning the brewing process, you must first understand the four key
+ingredients necessary to brew a batch of beer: water, fermentable sugar, hops,
+and yeast. Each ingredient is integral to the recipe and must be cooked in a
+certain way to yield a successful batch of brew. Understanding their basic
+qualities and how each ingredient is meant to react with the others is an
+important aspect of beer brewing.
+
+Water: Water is the primary ingredient in beer, so it is very important the
+water tastes good. If the tap water at your house tastes good to you, then it
+is fine to use for beer brewing. If you don't like the way your tap water
+tastes, then you can use bottled or distilled water instead. If you use tap
+water, boil it first to evaporate the chlorine and other chemicals that may
+interfere with the brewing process. Let the water cool before using.
+
+Fermented Sugar: Malted barley is the ingredient commonly used to fill the
+sugar quota in a home brew recipe. Some brewers will substitute a percentage
+of corn, rice, wheat, or other grains to add a lighter flavor to the beer.
+Beginning brewers should purchase a ready-to-use form of malted barley called
+malt syrup or malt extract, rather than attempting to malt the grain from
+scratch, as it is a very complex and touchy process. Using a malt extract will
+guarantee the fermented sugar is prepared in just the right manner and will
+act as it needs to throughout the beer brewing process.
+
+Hops: Hops are cone-like flowers found on a hop vine. They lend the bitter
+flavor to beer that balances out sweetness. Hops also inhibit spoilage and
+help keep the "head" (the frothy top when a beer is poured) around longer.
+
+Yeast: First things first: Do not use bread yeast for beer brewing! Beer yeast
+is cultivated especially for use in brewing. There are two broad categories of
+beer yeast: ale and lager. Ale yeasts are top-fermenting, which means they
+tend to hang out at the top of the carboy while fermenting and rest at the
+bottom after the majority of fermenting has occurred. Ale yeasts will not
+actively ferment below 50 degrees F (20 degrees C). Lager yeasts are
+bottom-fermenters and are best used at a temperature ranging from 55 degrees F
+(25 degrees C) down to 32 degrees F (0 degrees C). As their names suggest, the
+type of yeast used plays an important part in influencing the type of beer
+that will be made. Do not rely on the yeast to define the beer, however, as
+all of the ingredients play a part in the taste and type of beer you will
+create.
+
+**Ready to Brew?**
+We've opted to use a simple ale recipe to guide you through the process. The
+first cooking step in brewing is to make the wort, a soupy mixture of malt and
+sugar that is boiled before fermentation. Malt and sugar form the perfect food
+for yeast to grown in--thus making the all-important process of fermentation
+possible. All of the ingredients for beer-making can be found at your local
+brew supply store, or at any number of beer outfitters. Once you've got all
+the necessary equipment and ingredients, you're ready to begin the beer-making
+process by properly sanitizing your equipment, making and cooling the wort,
+fermenting the wort, and bottling your brew.
+
+Ingredients:
+
+1.5 gallons water
+6 pounds canned pre-hopped light malt syrup
+1 ounce hop pellets (choose your flavor)
+Ice poured into a water bath (do not use store-bought ice)
+3 gallons cool water
+2 (7-gram) packets ale yeast
+1 cup warm water (about 90 degrees F or 35 degrees C)
+3/4 cup liquid corn syrup (or 4 ounces dry corn syrup)
+1 (4-ounce) container iodine solution
+1 tablespoon bleach
+
+A bottle of household bleach or an iodine solution that can be bought at your
+local home brew shop to sanitize all of your materials or use will be
+necessary. (Make a bleach disinfecting solution with 1 tablespoon bleach to 1
+gallon water.) Be sure to rinse the equipment well with boiling water before
+using it.
+
+Part I: Make and Cool the Wort
+
+Sanitize the pot, stirring spoon and fermenter with the sanitizing solution.
+Rinse everything in boiling water.
+
+Bring 1.5 gallons of water to a boil. When the water begins to boil, remove it
+from the heat and stir in the malt syrup until it dissolves. Do not allow any
+syrup to stick to the bottom or sides of the pot, as it will burn and taste
+awful. Return the pot to the heat and bring the mixture to a boil for 50
+minutes, stir frequently and watch constantly to prevent boil-overs. If the
+mixture threatens to boil over, reduce the heat.
+
+After 50 minutes have elapsed, stir in the hop pellets. Hops will create a
+foam on the top of the liquid--so if the pot is very full, the hops may cause
+a boil-over. You want to avoid this at all costs by lowering the heat or
+spraying the foam down with a water bottle (sanitized, of course). Let the
+hops cook for 10 to 20 minutes.
+
+While the wort is being made, prep the yeast by placing 1 packet of yeast in 1
+cup of warm water (90 degrees F or 35 degrees C; stir and cover for 10
+minutes. If the yeast does not react (form foam), discard the yeast solution
+and try again with the second yeast packet.
+
+At about the time hops are added to the wort, you should prepare an ice-cold
+water bath in either a large sink or tub to quick-cool the wort. Once the wort
+is finished cooking, float the pot in the water bath. Stir the wort while it
+is sitting in the bath so that the maximum amount of wort reaches the pot's
+sides where it can cool quickly. If the water bath heats up, add more ice to
+keep the water bath cold. It should take approximately 20 minutes to cool the
+wort to approximately 80 degrees F (27 degrees C).
+
+
+Part II: Ferment
+
+Pour the 3 gallons cool water into your sanitized carboy. Funnel in the warm
+wort. Sprinkle the prepared yeast into the carboy. Cover the carboy's mouth
+with plastic wrap and cap it with a lid. Holding your hand tight over the lid,
+shake the bottle up and down to distribute the yeast. Remove the plastic wrap,
+wipe any wort around the carboy's mouth off and place the fermentation lock
+(with a little water added into its top) on.
+
+Store the carboy in a cool (60 to 75 degrees F or 15 to 24 degrees C) safe
+place without direct sunlight where you will be able to easily clean up or
+drain any foam that escapes. A bathtub is an excellent place to store your
+fermenter if there are no windows in the room. If the temperature in the
+storage room drops and bubbling in the carboy's airlock stops, move the carboy
+to a warmer room. The fermenting will resume. Fermentation should begin within
+24 hours. A clear sign of fermentation is the production of foam and air
+bubbles in the fermentation lock.
+
+When fermentation begins, it produces a slow trickle of bubbles that will
+increase in amount for a few days, and then reduce to a slow trickle again.
+Let the beer ferment for approximately 14 days when the primary fermentation
+has taken place. If the fermenting process pops the fermentation lock out of
+the carboy, re-sanitize it and place it back into the carboy.
+
+
+Part III: Bottle
+
+Sanitize all of your bottles by soaking them in the sanitizing solution (make
+sure to hold them under the solution so the water gets inside of the bottles)
+for 1 hour. Rinse the bottles with boiling water. Also sanitize a small
+cooking pot, bottling bucket, siphon and racking cane. Follow the instructions
+that came with the bottle caps to sanitize them. Let everything air dry.
+Combine the corn syrup and 1 cup water in the sanitized cooking pot. Let boil
+10 minutes. Pour mixture into the bottling bucket. Be careful not to add too
+much corn syrup to the bottling bucket, because this will over-carbonate the
+beer and cause bottles to explode! Place the fermenter full of beer on the
+kitchen counter and the bottling bucket on the ground below it. Attach the
+racking cane to the siphon. Prepare the siphon by filling it with tap water.
+Pinch both ends of the siphon to prevent the water from running out. Place one
+end of the racking cane and siphon into the iodine solution and one end into
+an empty jar. When the solution has run into the siphon and expelled all of
+the water into the jar, pinch both ends and let the iodine sit in the siphon
+for 5 minutes to re-sanitize the siphon. (Resist the temptation to blow into
+the siphon with your mouth to encourage the flow of iodine solution.)
+
+Place one end of the sanitized siphon into the fermenter and the other end
+into the jar; once the beer has begun flowing through the siphon, transfer its
+end to the bottling bucket. Monitor the speed that the beer transfers into the
+bottling bucket by pinching and releasing the siphon with your fingers (or use
+a specialty clamp). The beer should not splash into the bucket; it should
+gently rush into it. Once all of the beer has been siphoned into the bucket,
+cover it (with a sanitized cover ) and wait 30 minutes for the sediment to
+settle at the bottom of the bucket.
+
+Place the bottling bucket on the counter, attach the siphon and run the other
+end of the siphon into a bottle. Fill each bottle with beer to 3/4 inch from
+the top of the bottle. Cap each bottle with the bottle-capper. Check and
+double-check that the caps are secure. Sure Signs of Infection:
+
+Keep your eyes peeled for strands of slime in the beer and a milky layer at
+the top and/or residue bumps clinging to the air space in the bottleneck. If
+the beer has strands, it most likely has a lacto infection and should be
+discarded. The milky layer is a sign of a micro-derm infection; this beer
+should also be discarded.
+
+Age the bottles at room temperature for up to two months, but for at least two
+weeks, before cracking one open, proposing a toast to yourself and impressing
+your friends! Ready to expand your brewing prowess?
+
+Thanks for brewin'
+EOS
+
+puts HOMEBREW_BEER